Tuesday, 25 July, 2017

Hello hello. kicking things off with a few goals in mind. Keep my dedication to leisure UP and maybe improve my writing and surfing skills.

Blackies, Newport Beach 7:00a

Got to the beach for a quick session with my new board - the Seaglass Albacore. It's a finless surfboard modeled off of an traditional Alaia board used by ancient hawaiians. Check out the video, so sick.

One day. one day, i'll be slipping and sliding like that.

Anyways, back to the beach: so far my only experience with this board had no wax, and I wasn't able to paddle out without it slipping out from under me. SO today, a little wax went a long way. It was pretty small at Blackies so I headed down south of the pier were it was super peaky but a bit the sets were a bit more frequent. My plan was to ride some whitewater on my belly to start getting a feel for how it handles.

Successfully jumping into a few sets got my pretty stoked and I was even able to paddle into some of them as they broke on the shore. All in all, i'd say it was a success for ankle to knee high conditions.

Now i'm home, taking a break from work and waiting eagerly for my single fin upgrade for my giant wavestorm.

lucas chen