Thursday, 27 July 2017

Today i went out to Doheney beach for the first time in the early AM. I got in the water at 7am and it was completely flat. 0-1 ft waves with a very occasional 2 ft set. Nice and mellow, good vibes from the people in the lineup. Tiny waves had everyone laughing and just soaking up the positivity of being out on the ocean.

I met a nice guy that was visiting from Washington. He was pretty seasoned and scoping different spots for his wife and kids. I talked to him for a short while and was able to ask him about the frigid waters of the north.. Since Jenny and I will be moving to SF in mid August. I'll need to be prepared to handle waters of 58-60 (summer) and 48-50 (winter). He recommended a 4/3 for the summer and a 5/4 with hood, booties, and gloves in the winter. Dayumn. I guess i'll have to find out for myself how cold it really is and decide if I need to invest in more layers. Everyones talking about the coming storm swells next week which the forecast is saying to be pretty fun. some 5-8 to 4 ft overhead stuff. woo

Pretty excited to go out for that especially after testing out the new single fin I put on my board. Originally I had a thruster setup with 3 small fins. Now with this new kit, I opted for one big fin. People were saying that it helped reduce drag and soften up the way the board steers in the water. I caught a few fun waves today and really liked how it felt under my feet.

With the three fins, I could feel the board really "locked" into the water as i'm riding forward. It was necessary to lean hard into it to get it to turn. On the single fin, I couldn't notice too much of a difference when I was paddling. (maybe a bit more glide, maybe maybenot) Where I really saw a change was when I tried turning on the waves. It was softer, more relaxed, and didn't "grip" the water as much. I felt more of a gliding sensation when moving through the water which I prefer for now. Overall, i'm happy with the change - still working on those popup to bottom turns u kno?

lucas chen