Friday, 4 Aug 2017

waves have been great!!!

i've been lazy to write. honestly i kind of forgot about the whole journal thing. I started with the intention to try to align my "interest compass" with something valuable to you, the audience! well well. I surfed a few times this week. I'm starting to try to measure my "wave count". I think i'm averaging about 3-4 decent rides with about 8 tries to catch unbroken waves.

Starting to surf has inspired me to really get back into shape. When I began I could barely paddle out without feeling done. I'm definitely improving but still feel like I have a looong way to go. I'm actually pretty happy about this because I know I have a tendency to not "stick" with things for very long. I'm averaging about 1 year intensive interest that sort of wanes as I start to feel proficient. I am writing these journals to help me identify WHY I go through these kinds of peaks and pits.

for now... surfing is tight. I found a spot in the Bay Area that offers lessons and a space for shaping surfboards. It's my goal this year before my next summer (when I come back) to have a legit board that I shaped and glassed myself. hopefully i'll still suck so I keep up with it.

I feel like i should just keep moving on. That's my strength. dive in, get obsessed, then make cool shhhtuff.

lucas chen